The Earth-Killing Material Found in Everything You Wear

What is Polyester?

Polyester is a synthetic textile made from plastic, specifically polyethylene terephthalate (PET). It dominates the fashion industry, comprising approximately 70% of all synthetic fibers and found in around 60% of garments worldwide. While it is prized for its durability, low cost, and ease of care, polyester's environmental impact is significant. It’s produced using petroleum, a non-renewable resource, and its widespread use raises critical environmental and ethical questions.

How is Polyester Made?

Polyester is primarily derived from crude oil, undergoing a complex, energy-intensive process to be converted into plastic fibers. The production process involves refining oil into monomers, which are then polymerized into PET. The PET is spun into fibers and woven into textiles. This process requires vast amounts of energy, water, and chemicals, releasing harmful emissions and pollutants into the environment.

In addition to petroleum-based fibers, there are synthetic textiles made from chemically processed plant materials, such as rayon, viscose, and lyocell. However, polyester remains the most common synthetic textile and is heavily reliant on fossil fuels, exacerbating its environmental footprint.

What is Polyester Used In?

Polyester is used in a wide variety of products, including:

• Clothing: It’s ubiquitous in fashion, from athletic wear and fast fashion items to outerwear and undergarments.
• Home Textiles: Polyester is also found in bedding, curtains, carpets, and upholstery.
• Packaging and Industrial Use: It is used in plastic bottles, food packaging, and industrial fabrics due to its durability and low production cost.

Is Polyester Eco-Friendly or Sustainable?

No. Polyester is highly detrimental to the environment for several reasons:

1. Fossil Fuel Reliance: Polyester production depends on petroleum, contributing to resource depletion and carbon emissions.
2. Microplastic Pollution: Every time polyester garments are washed, they shed microplastic fibers, which are too small to be filtered by wastewater treatment plants. These microplastics accumulate in oceans, rivers, and even in the food chain, posing a risk to marine life and human health. It's estimated that up to 35% of all primary microplastics in marine environments originate from synthetic clothing.
3. Non-Biodegradable: Once discarded, polyester fabrics can take hundreds of years to decompose in landfills. Even when incinerated, the fibers release harmful toxins into the air.

According to a UK Parliamentary report, textiles are the largest source of microplastic pollution in oceans. Each domestic wash cycle can release up to 700,000 plastic fibers, contributing to the pollution of marine ecosystems and the ingestion of microplastics by fish and shellfish, which humans then consume.

Is Polyester Bad for the Environment?

Yes, polyester's environmental impact is severe. Not only does it shed microplastics into water systems, but the production and disposal of polyester also contribute to air and soil contamination. Furthermore, the manufacturing process is energy-intensive, relying heavily on fossil fuels, which increases greenhouse gas emissions. Polyester contributes significantly to the fashion industry's waste problem and pollution levels.

Is Polyester Toxic to Wear?

Yes, polyester has been linked to potential health risks. It can contain harmful chemicals, including PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), often referred to as "forever chemicals" because they don't break down in the environment or the human body. Recent studies have found toxic levels of PFAS in various clothing items, including yoga pants and school uniforms. These chemicals are associated with cancer, hormone disruption, and other serious health conditions, raising concerns about the safety of wearing polyester next to the skin.

The Environmental Impact of Polyester

The environmental impact of polyester is multifaceted:

• Carbon Emissions: The carbon footprint of polyester is higher than natural fibers like cotton. A polyester shirt has more than twice the carbon emissions of a cotton shirt, with 5.5 kg CO2e versus 2.1 kg CO2e, respectively.
• Water Pollution: In addition to shedding microplastics, the chemical treatments and dyes used in polyester production often result in the discharge of toxic wastewater.
• Non-Renewable Resource Consumption: Polyester production depletes finite fossil fuels, contributing to global energy crises and climate change.

Why Do Major Fashion Brands Use Polyester?

Despite its environmental impact, polyester is widely used by major fashion brands because it is cheap, durable, and versatile. Fast fashion brands, in particular, rely on polyester to produce inexpensive, trendy clothing at a rapid pace. Its low cost makes it an attractive option for businesses looking to maximize profit margins, often at the expense of sustainability.

Polyester vs Cotton: Carbon Footprint, Water Usage, and Social Impact

• Carbon Footprint: As mentioned earlier, polyester has more than double the carbon footprint of cotton due to its reliance on petroleum and energy-intensive production processes.

• Water Usage: While cotton is notorious for its high water consumption, particularly in regions where water scarcity is an issue, polyester has its own environmental challenges related to water pollution. Unlike cotton, polyester sheds microplastics into water systems, leading to long-term contamination of marine ecosystems.

• Social Impact: Cotton farming, especially in developing countries, is labor-intensive and often relies on low-paid workers, leading to social justice concerns. On the other hand, polyester production is less labor-dependent but comes with its own issues, including the exposure of factory workers to toxic chemicals.

Conclusion

Polyester may be cheap and convenient, but its true cost is far higher than its price tag suggests. The fashion industry’s reliance on polyester is contributing to a range of environmental problems, from microplastic pollution to the depletion of non-renewable resources. While recycled polyester offers a partial solution, it doesn’t address the core issue of unsustainable textile production. Moving away from polyester and supporting sustainable, biodegradable alternatives like organic cotton or hemp is crucial for reducing fashion’s impact on the planet.